Screen Printing’s Best Exposure Unit

rogerjennings asked:

Find out what makes a great exposure unit so you can build one at minimal cost. for help.


  1. clevermonkeytees


  2. cool stuff man !!

  3. This video is Great!!

    Hey guys for some awesome shirts check out


  4. drjackohollious

    I have been printing for 5 years and I will tell you, this guy knows his stuff!

  5. silvertonguedbard

    I have a very similar home-built unit but I use a 500 watt photographer’s flood bulb. I used to use a halogen bulb exposure which took about 12 minutes with my current emulsion which is DHC Diazo, Dual Cure Pink from Ryonet. I can now expose it in two minutes with my flood bulb.

  6. looks like football practice…

  7. Thank You So Much learning alot from your videos..You are so clear and on point with your topics..Im tyring to start a little printing business to sell shirts and you are helping me majorly…Thank you

  8. Metal Halide lights are VERY VERY easy to find…check out your local Hydroponics shop. You can pick up a ballast, socket, and bulb for around $300.

  9. Roger, are these the exposer units you use in your printing shop? Or do you use more advanced machines?

  10. The blanket is wet suit material. So you can make your own, or buy from NuArc. We are a NuArc distributor, if you need help. You might try calling NuArc directly. Roger

  11. Thanks that was very good information, I wished I could come up with a way to add a neoprean blanket to my NuArc 40-1K offset plate exposure unit that I don’t use any longer. I saw one in a show today, but he had no idea where it was converted, would you have any idea?

  12. rogerjennings

    Send me an email address to roger at rjennings dot com, and I will send you a drawing. Please be sure to put either “screen printing” or “exposure unit” on the subject line, or the email will get zapped as spam. Roger

  13. Mr. Jennings, Could you tell me exactly all the materials listed in the video?

  14. Wow! How cool. cant wait to watch your other vids too.

  15. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU Mr. Jennings. I’m definitely one of those that consider you a hero. THANK YOU!

  16. Sodium lights typically are not instant on. They come on gradually. If that is the light to which you are referring, then a shutter should be installed which is not opened until the light reaches full potential. Then the exposure time required start to finish is longer. As for grow lights, if the bulb is the diameter of a cigar and no more than 4″ or 6″ long, and still produces 1000 watts or more, then great. Where do I sign up?

  17. MicrophonicFool

    He must not be on the westcoast or he would have invited people to visit their ‘Hydroponic grow’ store as a source for 1000W metal-halide or Sodium lights….

  18. gentlemanoffortune

    Roger is a hero.

  19. Yes, output declines with age with any bulb, including metal halide. We have a NuArc, and the light integrator does not work as advertised. We periodically run a step wedge test to calibrate the light required to the capillary film being used. We rarely use liquid emulsion, because it is not precise.

  20. Metal Halide rocks! my nuarc has a sensor that measures the amount of ultra violet so that’s convenient. does the quartz light ultraviolet output varies with the age of the bulb?

  21. Thanks Mr.Jennings, I love your set up!!!
    I love you explation on point lights

    Were personaly use a large modified artist lightbox but with a tight row of eight Black light blue blubs.

    We been doing well with getting the details in the wash out by using better photoplomer emultion, a light distance of two inches away from the glass, and a black cloth held down by heavy square flat weights.

    That mixed with a lot of trail and error, coating technique, and Patience LOL!

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